Specimens of male dress in nineteenth-century Malta : a stylistic and comparative study of sartorial currents

Abstract

By researching nineteenth-century menswear in Malta, this study offers a unique perspective on cultural, social, and historical developments on the island, a topic not yet fully explored academically. This research aims to fill a significant gap in Maltese Art History by examining the island's cultural heritage through the lens of menswear. This examination reveals Malta’s reflections, values, traditions, and lifestyles. The nineteenth century was marked by significant global changes and socioeconomic transformations in Malta, mirrored in male dress. Menswear provides insights into how these changes manifested locally, highlighting the island’s dynamic cultural landscape. The period saw the dominant influence of British colonial power on local fashion, shedding light on how colonialism impacted Maltese fashion and identity. This approach enables an investigation into how Maltese men kept up with contemporary fashions across the central Mediterranean, demonstrating that the island was not isolated. Furthermore, this study extends beyond garments to encompass craftsmanship by examining fabrics, tailoring techniques, and stylistic choices. Clothing is a form of self-expression and identity, making it critical for understanding social norms and individual identities in nineteenth-century Malta. The dynamic interplay between textile producers, cloth merchants, designers, pattern makers, tailors, dressmakers, clothing establishments, consumer preferences, technological advancements, and global activities is also explored. Analysing nineteenth-century menswear reveals how Maltese individuals expressed their identity through clothing and how societal norms influenced dress choices. A progression in dress can be traced from the early nineteenth century to its conclusion, with social class and status often reflected through dress. This study places Maltese menswear within the central Mediterranean context, comparing it with Spain, Italy, and France, illustrating that the island was part of a broader cultural milieu.