Liturgical vestments for the order of St John in Malta

Abstract

The aim of this dissertation is the study of textiles in Malta, with particular reference to those utilized in the manufacture of liturgical vestments for the Order of St John. This subject has been so far unexplored. Although scholarly papers and books have been published about other textile artifacts in Malta, such as tapestries, lace and costume, the history of textiles in Malta and their composition have only been cursorily referred to and never treated as an independent subject to study. Many liturgical vestments survive in Malta, since the Island's culture has, for centuries, always been entwined with its Catholic religion. This narrows its focus on those that belonged to the chaplains of the Order of St John, between 1530 to 1798. These afford a wide view, ranging from around 1550s till the 1780s, with the earliest vestments coming, stylistically, from the High Renaissance till the transition from Rococo to the Neo-classical. The earliest vestments have been included because their inclusion helps to illustrate stylistic changes in the period in consideration and also because they are particularly precious and rare examples of textiles as well as embroideries. The vestments belong to the former churches of the Order, namely, the Conventual Church dedicated to St John in Valletta, the Wignacourt Collegiate Museum in Rabat, which houses the collection that belongs to the Grotto of St Paul and the minor churches of the Order, also in Valletta.