Antique Maltese lace of the time of the Knights, 1530-1798 : artistic consideration and technical innovations

Abstract

This dissertation opens with a definition of lace in general, and a brief history of its evolution from previous handwork into an authentic and independent craft, that appeared in Europe in the sixteenth century. A background history of the Maltese Islands under the influence of the various dominating countries explains the context and the favourable conditions leading to the introduction of the new craft. The production of cotton thread was important not only because it was the staple industry of the majority, but also because its trade provided a route linking the island to Europe, along which lace travelled to and from. Maltese people had skilfully learnt the crafts of spinning, weaving and embroidery from past generations, and passed them on to future generations by family traditions on a rather cottage industry. The manufacture of lace became important among the nobility of Malta when the coming of the Knights increased trade with the important Venice, Genoa, France, Spain and Portugal. At first the noble ladies themselves, already accustomed to refined needlework, were employed in lace making with fine thread, silk, and gold threads; later the peasants copied the art and, as in Europe, made a subsistence living out of it. Artists contributed their share by making designs and paintings of important personalities wearing contemporary lace. Sumptuary laws issued by the Grand Master every now and then reveal the various uses of lace, the quality and the amount made at the time. The Church, exempted from these bans, has been the principal agent responsible for keeping alive the old traditions of lace making.